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Jule jule!

From the Gompa with the airy fairy monks we went further to Kaza, a less interesting transit village, which we left for the direction of Tabo.

Tabo

We know Tabo als the lovely baby of Inge and Bart. As so, we had high expectations. It should be a marvellous place, not only estimated by our dear friends (who are just married, congratulations!!!) but also by the Dalai Lama who lost his heart and wants to spent his old age there. Not a bad choice as it seems. We were here somehow out of the season (no more banana lassi, no toast and pops...) but such a peaceful atmosphere in the scarce streets and guest houses of this little mountain village.

However there was al lot to enjoy:

-the funny ex-monk Nepali seller who was too good to make a lot of profit on his little jewels and could talk for hours about his fascinating life story

- the manager of the monastery guesthouse where we were staying, always prepared to settle everything for us

- The Zion café, Rasta atmosphere and a lack of electricity: switching between dj and candlelight dinner

- a traditional Nepali wedding party from a 18 year old girl with her self chosen lover (love marriage as they call it here)

- And most IMPORTANT: the temple complex of Tabo: 7 temples full of holly stucco statues, wall paintings and wood cuttings. The mysterious dark places you are allowed to lighten up with your little torch . World inheritance in an atmosphere of  perishableness. You can indeed  discover different cracks in the walls, stains of damp,… But even this belongs to Buddhism. It doesn’t make their art less sparkling, colourful, fascinating, delicate. Their treasure of statues includes:

- goddesses with round breasts

- Buda´s with lovely faces and their hands in gracious positions

- Bleu, white and red Buda’s with accessory dresses and coloured lips

- monsters with big eyes and sharp teeth, these are the protectors

- holly men in holly towns

- elephants which support the whole thing

- flowers and patterns on the ceilings and the beams

- sacrifices of fresh water, artificial flowers, pastas, money, candy…

- pictures of Dalai Lama

- mandala’s: mysterious signs of eternality

- more Buda’s and Boddhissatva’s in circles and other shapes

 

How long should one study Buddhism to understand whatever is represented here? We enjoy the mysterious treasures in these temples of loam. Tabo always will appeal to our imagination. Long live the monks who are allowed to dwell here…

We were very lucky. On Monday a new abode for monks was inaugurated. A Korean delegation of Buddhist friends came to bless the whole thing and the whole village was present : dancing monks with black hats, monks who generated deep sounds from their Tibetan horns, local women decorated with jewels, school kids shows, rice and tea for everybody.

 

We also visited other temples

DANKAR

Decay and destruction everywhere... This little village and temple complex is built on a rocky steep flank. It is a labyrinth of little streets, temples, prayer mills. Climbing and scrambling about, at every corner you see a different view on the mountain and the valley. Regrettably, everything is crumbling away slowly but surely.

LALUNG

A marvellous white coloured building with little flags on top, 1000 years old. The atmosphere inside is simply devine0. Again mysterious, beautiful coloured combinations, glorious Buda faces. We just can’t get enough of it.

 

Now we are in Manali., spending the last days with the group. The drive on the ramshackle bus was hellish, the more as some of us suffered from some sort of intestine virus. But here we can relax, there are hot water wells, a nice hotel, good restaurants,.. The end of a lovely month.

 

Lode, Ignace, Francis, Oona, Lisa, Andres, Sylvie and Annelie thank you for the nice company. We are going to miss you. But first tonight a farewell party!!!

Report from 19/09/2007, Translated by Mieke.